Village Life in Charmouth during the Second World War

In my collection of postcards of Charmouth, I have a wonderful photograph showing the Home Guard in 1944 taken by Claude Hider of Bridport. When enlarged up you can clearly see the faces of these former inhabitants of the Village. I have placed these images on my Website, for others to enjoy, especially their descendants. We are fortunate as usual that our famous local historian, Reginald Pavey was able at the time to add names to these men. I have since been able to locate the Electoral Roll in the Dorset Record Office for that year and found the addresses of where they lived. It also showed that there were 664 people able to vote in that year with a secondary list of 74 men who were in the services. This has spurred me on to research all available information from books and residents who lived then to build up a picture of how the village may have appeared at that time. Ron and Jean Dampier have been especially helpful with their insights.

Charmouth had originally a defensive role, but as the war went on this became offensive and the village adapted accordingly, leading up to the D Day landings. Many of the village men were called away to the armed services and the women were drawn into essential industries and farm work and there was also the arrival of the evacuees. Even as early as 1939, British troops were billeted in the village who were concerned with coastal defence. Preparations were badly needed as the area around Lyme Regis was where Hitler planned to invade as it provided a springboard towards Bristol. In May 1940 the concrete anti-tank blocks were built along the shore, as well as Pillboxes at Black Venn, in front of the old cement works, and another on the other side of the river at the shoreline. Others were built at Seadown, on Lower Sea Lane where the new school stands, on Higher Sea Lane by the top of the old allotments, and at Five Acre field at the rear of Jasmine Cottage, which has miraculously survived to this day. There would also be a Searchlight in the field next to the wooden bridge and an anti-aircraft battery on the outskirts of the village at Lily Farm.
Fred Welsh who served in the D company 9th Battalion Durham Light Infantry was involved with the defences and tells how they had to remove everyone from the Caravan Park with just 24 hours' notice. They laid masses of barbed wire, which the local Coastguard warned them was too near the shore. He was proved right one night after a storm and they had to re-lay it further back. Fred also had to patrol along the beach, but was later given telephone duty at Thalatta, where they were based, in case they received the call for a German invasion, which was to never thankfully come. His duties included manning the road blocks and gate to the beach. Rest periods were spent at the army barracks in Bridport.

Very few images have survived of Charmouth during the Second World War, but there is an aerial photograph taken soon after in 1946, which is very useful. Many of the fields between the Street and the beach were divided up into allotments. It also shows the line of anti-tank concrete blocks, known as the “Dragons Teeth” stretching along the shore. They were originally joined together by metal poles to prevent tanks moving inland to the main Road. A few have survived and can be seen today. The cliffs and neighbouring fields were mined, and one sad result of this was when a Cow stepped on one at Stonebarrow and was blown up, which was later recorded in an illustration for The Dorset Women's Institute Book. There were to be frequent dog fights overhead during the Battle of Britain. Bridport was to have two bombing raids in 1942 resulting in 20 houses being destroyed and seven deaths. In the same year a listening post was built at the top of Stonebarrow Lane, where translators intercepted the radio communications between German aircraft as they crossed the coast. But The Radar Station fell over the cliff almost as soon as it was built and can still be seen today at the bottom of the cliff.

The School Log Book documents events as they unfolded in the village as the war went on. Trenches were being planned in the field behind it even before the war had started. The arrival of evacuees from Paddington, then a poor part of London, was another significant chapter in the village's history. The lack of space meant that they were to have to convert a Pavilion behind the school for additional space. They were mainly to stay with families at the bottom end of the village, which was to create a degree of rivalry with village children at the top. The most tragic entries concern Mr Thornton, a teacher who came with the evacuees in September 1939, who is shown to have had his house bombed in January 1941.The following year he is called up and was killed in action in Italy on Nov 23rd 1943.

Thalatta is the nearest house to the beach and was commandeered by the army in 1940 and was to be briefly occupied by 12 men and a Lieutenant who had a 2 pounder gun mounted on the back of an old lorry. Derrick Warren, who as a boy spent his holidays in a Caravan at the neighbouring Red Bungalow owned by his Aunt, provides a vivid picture of those times as follows:

“At two o' clock in the morning of 5th September I was awakened (the caravan doors were open) by the noise of the troops being called out. I went over and was told invasion was imminent and would I go up on the cliff with the Lieutenant and act as a runner. The sea was dead calm and with a bright moon the conditions were ideal as there was also a slight haze. I remember thinking 'that is it'. But the Germans never came for it was a false alarm - not an exercise. Later I saw my first German Plane shot down, from the cliff top above Cains Folly. After the dog fight three crewmen jumped - two parachutes opened, the third 'candled'. A RAF rescue launch came out from Lyme and picked them all up. A Chard doctor, Dr. Granvill, pronounced one dead and he is buried in Lyme Cemetery. The Lieutenant in charge at Charmouth was a keen swimmer and had a hole left in the defences so that he could get to the beach. I was also allowed to use it and had the whole beach to myself (Golden Cap to Lyme!) but on the strict understanding I did not go up the cliffs, for many were mined. For days on end never saw a sole and never wore a stitch!” The Home Guard positions on the East Cliff could cover the beach and they later had a five-pounder installed there with a limited number of shells.
The area between the Street and the beach was mainly fields with just a few houses. The largest was Hammonds Mead to be found at the end of a long drive, at the bottom of Lower Sea Lane. Here lived the elderly, Miss Gertrude Evans, who generously gave the Parish Council in 1945 a number of adjoining fields as long as they were never built on. She was a staunch supporter of the Mission to Seamen and each year had a Fete there that raised money for that charity. On the opposite side to her house could be found the Wayside Tea Gardens which was run by Florence and Martha Kempster. The most significant building in the lane was the old School. It`s Log Book is held at the Record Office in Dorchester and is very revealing of how events at the time impinged on the children's lives. The most interesting are as follows:

1938

29 th Sept Instructions for Air Raid Precautions in Schools were sent to all schools.

5 th Oct An Education Official visited the school to enquire into plans for the provision of A.R.P. trenches in the field behind the school.

1939

21 st Sept some evacuees began to return home.

9 th Oct Doctor and nurse inspected evacuees and found one verminous head and two cases of impetigo.

23 rd Oct Air Raid Drill taken.

1940

31 st May Meeting to consider Air Raid Precautions. Children to lie on the floor under the desks. Cellophane strips on windows, and fine mesh wire fitted to all windows, skylights and glass doors.

17 th July County Architect visited the school to discuss the possibility of constructing trenches in the school playing field.

29 th August Children picking and selling blackberries to augment the school contribution towards the Spitfire which Dorset hoped to provide.

17 th Oct Children taken to gather acorns for pig keepers.

1941

13 th Jan Mr. Thornton returned to London. His house had been bombed.

5 th Feb Respirators inspected by A.R.P. Wardens.

20 th May Letter from Dorset Education Committee regarding holidays, and children helping in hay, corn and potato harvesting. Letter should be sent to local farmers asking for their requirements and stating terms on which children might be employed.

22 nd May In connection with the War Weapons Week at 3.0p.m. the children formed a procession at the top of the hill and marched to the Playing Field where Children's Sports were held.

12 th Sept Use of school by troops for weekly dance - month's trial.

1942

6 th Jan Mr. Thornton joined His Majesty's Forces

27 th March At 3.00 p.m. and 7.30 p.m. a Warship Week Entertainment was given in the school. Most of the children took part. £12.15.0d given to Exchequer.

1 st May A discussion of behaviour of troops at dances. Mr. Toyne interviewed the C.O. and asked for the attendance of a senior N.C.O. at dances.

1 st Sept 18 children sent flax pulling at Befferlands Farm, and for the following 4 afternoons at 8d per hour.

21 st Sept Classes 1 & 2 picked rose hips in the afternoon. 31 lbs were sent to Bristol.

25 th Nov Architect called to discuss Air Raid Shelters.

7 th Dec A.R.P. to be notified daily of attendances. Anyone hiring school must provide own fuel. Military occupied Church Hall.

1943

29 th March Annual report on teachers made by Head Teacher. Managers commented on Head. Easter holiday to be fixed to coincide with potato planting. Other holidays to be fixed at short notice with reference to local individual needs. Mrs. Little expressed regret that children were paid for agricultural work when they should be encouraged to give willing help to their country.

27 th May Mayor of Bridport presented Certificate awarded to the school for the part played in the successful H.M.S. Dorsetshire Replacement Campaign. School contributed £245.7.6d

11 th June The school target for Wings Week was £80. £160 was raised.

10 th Nov School meals commenced. A mobile canteen brought hot meals from the Bridport Centre.

1 st Dec The Commanding Officer of the American Forces Company stationed in Charmouth gave a talk on America. The children thanked him for the 30 lbs of sweets the Americans had given them.

1944

11 th Jan 2nd Lt. Thornton, who came to the school in Sept. 1939 in charge of the evacuees from Paddington, was killed in action in Italy on Nov 23rd 1943.

20 th March Holiday dates to be fixed by County for School Meals and transport. Still some flexibility to fit in potato harvesting.

19 th June The school raised £350 towards "Salute the Soldier week.

26 th June Two official evacuees from London readmitted. They left London to escape the danger of Pilotless (V1) airplanes.

1945

7 th May The Cessation of Hostilities was officially announced on the Monday evening.

8 th May Tuesday was V.E. Day. School closed for two days. 9 th July Last official evacuee returned home.

4 th Sept Parish Council asks Managers to organise a victory tea.

Ron Dampier who lived in Bridge Road with his mother Gladys, whilst his father Donald was in the services, remembers many of the events highlighted in the Log Book and his insights bring it to life. He and a number of his class created a wonderful display with model boats and a backcloth which went into his grandfather's shop window at "Charmouth Stores" to raise money towards replacing "HMS Dorsetshire", for which the school contributed £245.7.6d. When the mobile canteens arrived at the school the children had to eat meals consisting of beetroot, cabbage and luncheon meat. He can remember how they were kept busy picking berries, rosehips and acorns as part of the war effort. Most of the boys and girls spent time in their summer holidays on local farms. Flax for rope making was still grown in a number of fields and the children would assist in pulling it. He would also help in the making of nets and pullthroughs, which were used for cleaning rifle bores, which many villagers took on as outworkers.

Opposite the school were the Tennis Courts which were initially covered with tents for the British soldiers but later with Nissen Huts with the arrival of the American soldiers in 1943.They had a field kitchen block next to the Church Hall (Community Hall) which was popular with village children for hand-outs from the cooks.

In those days the entrance to Lower Sea Lane was very narrow and it was not until 1958 when a house named "Sandfords" was demolished by the council that it was able to be widened. During the war this was the house occupied by Colonel William Little who established the Local Defence Volunteers (L.D.V.) in the village. The platoon of between 20 and 24 men consisted of World War 1 veterans, youngsters awaiting call up and men not in reserved operations. The Charmouth platoon was based at the Women's Institute Hall, then situated just below the George on the opposite side of the road. The name of the force was later changed to the Home Guard. Looking at the faces in the accompanying photograph it is easy to compare them with the more famous "Dads Army”.

On the opposite corner to Sandfords was "Bragg`s Store"(now the Chemist) run by James and Elsie Bragg as a Grocers. The shop had formerly been the workshop for Pussey Pryer who had operated a stonemason's yard there until his death in 1931 when the adjoining field then known as Pear Close was developed by Bagshaw of Axminster and a number of businesses established on it. Amongst them was The Pharmacy (now the Florist) run by Sidney Herbert who was also a Sergeant in the local Home Guard and in time became Chairman of the Parish Council. Then there was Charles Fewster, the Hairdressers and Lloyds Bank (now the Bank Cafe). Billy Gear operated his Garage on the next plot. He lived with his wife in Uphill, a house they had built next to the Garage. His showroom was to become a Gift Shop (now the Fish Bar) run by his wife. Unfortunately the war was to have a devastating effect on his business and half his premises were requisitioned by the American Army. But true to form he decided to assist the returning British soldiers by organising a fund raising auction with contributions from both him and other villagers. With this money he held a special celebration and presented each man with a wallet with a substantial amount to help them.

If you were to walk a little further along The Street, you would have come to the famous "Queens Armes" which had been a Hotel run by Edward Harrison. On the opposite side would have been the ancient "George Inn" whose landlords were Edward and Edith Hunter. The large imposing building known as Devonedge was being run as a Hotel by William Upton. Nearby was a paper dump where the villagers would collect waste paper which was then recycled. The Parade of shops has seen many changes since the war. The Post Office on the corner was then Thomsons which was a General Drapers and Outfitters. Then came Dunns (now the Estate Agents) which was an Art and craft Shop run at that time by Hillary O`Connor. Adjoining it was a Bakery and Confectioners run by Harold Bert Smith, which had a large gold sign for Hovis covering its frontage. Finally there was George Restorick who ran his butchers from the premises, which now form part of Morgans, who was also a member of the Home Guard.
At the rear of the shops were the Playing Fields which were always popular with children with its swings and seesaw. Once a year the Fete was held there with such delights as hoop-la, a bran tub and children's sports. On the corner of Barr`s Lane was "The Limes" (now Charmouth Lodge) where the Whittington Family had lived from the beginning of the century. Mrs Whittington and her five daughters were very involved with the church, the tennis club and their private school. None of the five daughters married and the longest surviving, Winnie and Joan, lived into their 90`s. Their school was housed in the building now called "Little Lodge". A passageway at the side lead to “The Star Inn”, then run by Ruby Saville during the war years. On the corner was "The Charmouth Store", which was a Grocers owned by William Dampier, since 1918. His son Donald, (Ron`s father) was in the Army and his wife, Gladys was to assist in the shop. William was to tragically lose one son, Ronald, whose name appears on the War Memorial sited near "The Royal Oak". The stone cross has a plaque for those who died for their country from the village in the First World War, but later those from the Second World War were added on an additional plaque. The church also has a Book of Remembrance for those who served in both wars. It is particularly poignant to see the Newton family who lived on Old Lyme Hill and lost a son in the earlier conflict and two members in the later war.
Opposite the church Reginald Forsey could be found running Backland's Dairy whose cows passing down the street to be milked would have been a regular sight.

The Coach and Horses now converted into apartments was the village's largest Hotel, then run by Albert Hebdidge. Alongside it was Winton House - Charmouth`s second butchers - Framptons, which was run by two brothers Reub and Ron. They moved there in 1938 when they bought the butchers from Cecil Marsh. Both served in the Home Guard and appear in the group photograph. Just as the brothers were beginning to feel their feet in their business at Charmouth, war broke out and things became difficult for everyone, with the meat ration about 1/- to l/6d (5 to 8p) worth per week per person.
William and Edith Holly lived in Wistaria House, which had formerly been the village Post office, but during the war their shop was run as a Stationers. Nearby was The Royal Oak Inn which was managed by John and Annie Rump during the war years.

On the corner of Higher Sea Lane was Charmouth House, which had long been a Hotel. At the beginning of the war it was being run by Gwendoline Ransford, whose husband, Robert was serving in India as a Gunners Instructor in the Royal Artillery, and was not to arrive back until late in 1946.The Lane alongside was then more of a track, lined with a number of fields and the odd house dotted along it. Foxley Farm had its fields stretching at the back as far as Old Lyme Hill, and was farmed by Fred Cox who had his house and outbuildings behind the Street. The largest building was Sea Horse House, which had no doubt been requisitioned. The 1946 Aerial photograph for the village shows the path through the fields which was later to become the road now called 5 Acres. A Pill box was built in part of this and survives in the garden at the rear of Jasmine Cottage. Thalatta, at the bottom of Higher Sea Lane had been bought in 1937 by Sydney Barrett. He was to go on to be Winston Churchill`s scientific advisor. It was his backing of Barnes Wallis`s Flying Bomb, which was tested nearby at Chesil Beach that convinced Churchill of its viability.

Returning to the Street, one would have found a number of businesses at the top end, all of which have since disappeared. The largest was Long`s (now Melville House) It had opened in 1937 as a grocery business and was in time the village Post Office. Nora and Ellis Long were very active in the village for over 30 years and during the war he was an Incident Officer with the Civil Defence Corps. Over the road was another little grocery business run by Arthur and Lilian Cabell called “Knapp Stores” .Ernie Hutchings, was a cobbler living and working from Granville House. Next door was Childs a Hardware Store (now the fossil shop). Further along the Street was a coal yard opposite Nutcombe Terrace run by Spencer Gollop. The Singing Kettle was very popular and next to it was the New Inn whose landlord was William Tyson. Cecil, brother of Billy Gear ran his family fish business in the Street near its junction with Old Lyme Road. He was seriously affected by the lack of fish during the war, and his life was tragically cut short in 1944 at the early age of 48. The famous historian, Reginald Pavey was to spend his war years at The Well Head in this part of the Street.

Once the US entered the war, there was a big American presence in the village. They were very generous with chewing gum, chocolate bars, coca cola and sweets for the children and nylons for the older girls. The school log book records that on 1st December 1943 that the Commanding Officer of the American Forces Company stationed in Charmouth gave a talk on America and goes on to mention the 30 lbs of sweets that he gave to the children. There were regular parties and dances to the regimental Band which proved very popular with the younger villagers. By the end of January 1944 almost a million American GIs were crammed into southern England, before they left for Normandy. Operation Overlord was the code name for the mightiest seaborne invasion in history.

Sadly many of the Americans who had been billeted in Charmouth were to land on Omaha beach which was sown with mines. Over 2000 were killed there on the first day.

The men of the 66 th Infantry Division, the second great American force, were stationed in Charmouth following the departure of the 1 st Infantry Division. A number of them were to die when their ship, The Leopoldville was torpedoed, with the loss of 798 lives. Fatalities were also heavy amongst the British troops and the War Memorial has the name of Laurie Webster inscribed on it. He went ashore on Gold Beach with the 1st Battalion of the Dorsetshire Regiment at Asnelles, and was killed in action in front of Caen shortly after.

Again the School Log Book records the unfolding of events in 1945, when on the 7 th May it shows “The Cessation of Hostilities was officially announced on the Monday evening”. The following day was V.E. Day and the School was closed for two days. Later, on the 9 th July, the last official evacuee returns home. Finally on the 9 th September a Victory Tea is organised.
I hope this article gives a taster of the village's history during the Second World War. You can fine more on my website.There are also many books on Dorset during the war and the Imperial War Museum has a website which you will find useful.

Neil Mattingly

War Memorial Stone Cross in the Street alongside The Royal Oak the names are embossed on four plaques. In grateful memory of those of this parish who gave their lives in the Great War 1914-1919

W.G.Coles Gnr. R.F.A.
G.Cox Pte 1 st Dorsets
E. Grinter. Pte 3 rd Dorsets
W. Grinter Gnr R.G.A.
R.J.Hobbs Dvr R.F.A.
A.E.Larcombe AB, HMS Nottingham
J.G.Reid Captain 11 th Worc. Regt.
A.W.Ollender 2 nd Lt, 3 rd Sth Staff
T.B.Ogle 2 nd Lt., 2 nd Dorset
M.G.Boucher L.Cpl. 2 nd K.E.R.
V.A.Newton Bdr. RGA
A.Pidgeon Cpl. 15 th Welsh Regimenr.
H.Lock Pte 1 st Dorsets
W.H.Rowland Pte 1 st Dorset Yeomanry
H.G.Shiner Drv R.A.S.C.
F.G.Slowman Pte 1 /4 Devons
B.P.F.Smith Pte 1 st Dorset
Mildred J. Reid V.A.D.

1939-1945

R.E.A.Dampier Sgt..R.A.F.
J.Goodfellow Musc.R.M. H.M.S. Ajax
E.Newton Lh Stoker H.M.S. Neptune
S.A.Newton AB H.M.Subs
F.H.L. Vines Sgt.Air Gunner R.A.F.
L.B.Webster Sgt. 4 th Dorset

Note:1. F.H.L. Vines appears as F.H. Liddon-Vines in the Book of Remembrance
2. Pilot Officer Anthony J.Southwell R.A.F. although appearing in the Book of Remembrance does not appear on the War Memorial